The first leg of his captivating rail odyssey stretched from the Berlin Wall, sections of which were still being bulldozed, through Poland, Czechoslovakia and the Baltic republics. He met East Germans grappling with the traumas of reunification, Czechs basking in their rediscovered freedom. We meet punks with mohawk hairdos in Leningrad and peer inside a Moscow alcoholic clinic. A chic fashion show in Beijing highlights the contradictions of China's half-open-door policy to the West.